Island Breezes

Cool Corner Cafe

The town of Trat isn't much of a destination, but serves as a prelude to the gulf islands as it's close to the ferry terminals.  Five hours from Bangkok, this laid back provincial capital was a pleasant-enough place to spend a day or two.  It was refreshing because the residents lacked the jaded insularity & reticence we encountered in some of Thailand's mainstay destinations;  perhaps a response to the ugliness of unbridled tourism.  In any event, most travelers immediately hop on a boat to get to the beach.  But Trat has a few simple, cheap guest houses and we'd go back just to eat at Cool Corner.  Once we found this arty cafe, we ate all our meals there - the food was absolutely superb.     

Ko Kood

Koh Samet, Koh Chang, Koh Mak, Koh Kood...  the islands closer to the mainland were definitely most sought after - instant gratification.  Koh Kood is furthest on the chain and we heard it was relatively undeveloped even though it's the fourth largest island.  "Undeveloped" could mean many different things, though, being a subjective term.  So we tempered any rose-colored expectations of Koh Kood's seclusion and serenity, especially when we remembered feeling like sardines in Phuket.  It was highly unlikely that we would find a deserted isle in Thailand, simply because it has been one of the world's premier beach destinations for many years.   

view from our porch

Boy, were we surprised:  Koh Kood lives up to it's reputation.  There are only 1500 residents who make their living from fishing and growing coconut palms and rubber trees.  Life on the island is tranquil and laid-back; we didn't see a single car, just a few dozen motorcycles, 10 or so quarter-ton pick up trucks and the two "truck-tuks".  These massive open-air vehicles serve as a bus for the locals and a transportation service, bringing tourists from the ferry port to the resorts.  One day, we rented a scooter to explore, and it didn't take long to traverse the 20 km of paved road which abruptly ends at a pier.  Much of the island is fringed with scrub and mangroves, which has it's own wild beauty.  Huge rocks, impossibly smooth from being pounded by the surf, provide tide pools teeming with life.  But there is also plenty of squeaky soft sand to sink your toes into.  It's a rare pleasure to lie back and hear nothing but birds, geckos and the wind swaying in the palm trees.  Jet skis are mercifully absent, the preferred water sport being paddling around the bays in a kayak.  Koh Kood really is an idyllic setting; one expat we talked to compared it to Koh Samui in the early 1980s.  That island now sees over a million visitors a year.

Som Tam

So, as you can imagine, there's not a lot to say about what we've been doing for the last week.  I took advantage of the island's remoteness and decided to "unplug" for a while.  Internet connections were both rare and patchy and I didn't want to spend my time struggling with it.  We wanted a languid beach holiday and the three of us have been chilling to the max - watching sunsets, snorkeling, kayaking & eating squid and crab - two seafood treats that are abundant on Koh Kood.  Oh, and ordering Som Tam once a day.  Our new favorite, this spicy green papaya salad is fresh, healthy and utterly delicious.  At 60 baht a plate, get it while you can...

Feeling slightly guilty faced with our utter laziness, we mustered the willpower to hike to Nam Tok Khlong Chao waterfall.  The heat is unbearable during midday, so we decided to wake up bright and early to hit the road by 6:30.  But in the dry season it was a rather disappointing trickle!  So much for swimming in the pool of the waterfall - a little too stagnant this time of year.  We should have done more research, but we enjoyed our forest trek anyway.

Aron getting ready to snorkel

We're not sure why Koh Kood isn't much more popular, but we're not complaining.  Our resort sits on "Ao Ngamkho Bay" with gin-blue waters so clear that snorkeling seems almost unnecessary.  Though, avid snorkelers such as Aron are rewarded with rare sightings among the usual cheerful reef fish.  Cuttlefish are loosely related to an octopus or squid, and Aron watched one for quite some time.  First, it changed color to camouflage itself against the rocks on the ocean floor, then turned red as an expression of intimidation toward Aron.  Once the cuttlefish realized he wasn't a threat, it finally turned white to merge with the sand, waiting to ambush a meal.