From Luang Prabang to Bangkok

sunset in Luang Prabang looking down at the Mekong

After the driver helped us with our backpacks, we sleepily climbed into the songthaew (a pick-up with benches facing each other along the two sides of the truck) and headed to the airport.  Even though it's very early, many people are awake; out and about, ready to begin another day.  In the introspective pre-dawn, I looked back on the past week spent in Laos.  We didn't go to the Plain of Jars, or the Pak Ou Caves, the sacred "graveyard" for defunct or unwanted Buddha images.  We didn't even make it to the capital, Vientiane.
But somehow, for a brief moment, we felt the heartbeat of this tiny, unassuming country.  Among the many people we met, we had a conversation with a buoyant young man in his 20s.   Learning about his life, his world, his reality, is something that we will never, ever forget.  The irrepressible cheerfulness and kindness of the Lao people... There is absolutely no doubt in our minds that we be back to visit.  Laos has left an indelible mark on the two of us.

at one of Luang Prabang's many temples

Speaking of Laos, the Buddhist concept of "merit making" by giving alms to the monks is a firmly established tradition in Luang Prabang.  This daily ritual is how the laity supports their local community of monks, but sadly, it's becoming a bit of a spectacle.  We had heard that vendors sell sticky rice to tourists so that everyone can take part in this ancient spiritual tradition, irrespective of whether it has any personal meaning or not.  Sure enough, as our songthaew turns onto the main drag, we see handfuls of tourists, some still in pajamas, holding steaming cups of coffee.  Others, anticipating the "perfect shot", are fussing with the settings on their gigantic cameras as they wait for the monks to come along.  (It doesn't matter that the Lao government has signs posted everywhere to try to combat this intrusiveness.  The "Do's & Don't's" posters ask tourists to be respectful by keeping their distance to help preserve their culture.)

We drive away from the main tourist area into a quiet residential neighborhood. And then we see them: walking single file along the edge of the street, alms bowl in hand.  A line of fresh-faced novices, led by a wizened old monk.  As the monks approach, people kneel or crouch down showing respect as they put a bit of sticky rice into each bowl.  It was pretty special to see this without embarrassing or disturbing anyone in the process.  Sheer luck, and an early flight out of Laos, enabled us to be in the right place at the right time.

A typical busy street in Bangkok.  

From tranquil Luang Prabang to the bustle of Bangkok... what a contrast.  Even after six months of travel, seeing the chaotic, traffic-clogged capital of Thailand was as shocking as being splashed with ice-cold water!  Long ago, we'd already made up our minds about Bangkok, with its over-the-top reputation for flagrant hedonism and the "anything-goes" mentality. Sure, it could be a convenient revolving door for other destinations around S.E. Asia, but other than that, no thanks.  Yet, shortly after arriving, we saw a good handful of monks, and our first Buddhist nun with her shaved head and white robes.  And lots of regular people, waiting for the bus, walking with their children, eking out a living at their shops, having lunch with friends.  Whew!  Perhaps there is hope for avoiding the seediness.

And Bangkok has, by far, the greatest concentration of eateries that we've ever seen, with the exception of Hong Kong.  All you need is about 50 baht, or about $1.75 and you'll eat like a king!  For example, the outdoor restaurant below, serving nothing but pad thai in its all sorts of configurations - choose between fat noodles, thin noodles, with prawns, without prawns, topped with an omelette....  I have a feeling we're going to like Bangkok!

"Pad Thai Thipsamai" - popular with locals since 1966