Bienvenue a France

 When we left Basel, Switzerland,  the idea was that we'd take the train to Paris and have 7 or 8 hours to wander the city before boarding another train for Bayeux.  However.... things very rarely go as planned.  We arrived at the train station in Basel only to find out that the direct TGV (train a grand vitesse / high speed train) to Paris was fully booked.

Our only option was to take another train to Strasbourg and then disembark and find a train to Paris at that point.  Finally arriving in Paris at the Gare de l'Est, we had to get to the Gare de Lyon.  But, sadly, the Gare de Lyon was under serious renovations, which meant there were no lockers in which to store our hefty backpacks for the day.   Plan B:  Head to a bistro across the street, called le Brioche Doree,  have lunch, and then take the train immediately to Bayeux without exploring Paris.  We would simply have to come back...

Bayeux Cathedral

Bayeux, France.  Located in the Normandy province, we came here for WWII museums and history, and instead found other things.  The Bayeux Tapestry, a 70 meter piece of cloth embroidered with the story of William the Conqueror, created almost 1000 years ago (how this tapestry survived fires, wars, and even moths and mice, is nothing short of a miracle).  Then there was the Bayeux cathedral.  This stunning and ancient edifice has dominated the town of Bayeux since 1066.  When the bells toll, the pigeons who nest in the tower create a great fuss, fleeing for the trees in grey flocks.  And the charming river l'Aure, with it's pathway perfect for walks through town.

We've also found, not surprisingly, a gourmand's paradise.  Some things we've been eating, include pain au chocolat and boeuf bourgignon.  But this is the land of wine, cheese, and baguettes.  And there is a reason that the French are addicted to their baguettes - the texture and flavor is sublime. Every morning, bright and early, they all  head to the local bakery, intent on procuring their daily bread before the store sells out.   And we thought French people walking the cobblestone streets holding a baguette was a cliche!  What's wonderful is the fact that each region of France has local delicacies to discover.  For example, Normandy is known for apples and camembert, shellfish and dairy products.  Blessed with verdant pastures for the cattle to graze, the cream and butter produced here is famous for it's high quality.  Also, this northern (and coastal) region of France is the #1 producer of shellfish and so before we leave, we've made a commitment to try Coquilles St Jacques (scallops) and Moules Frites (mussels).  One thing we can definitely get used to is the fact that eating a meal is almost like a ceremony, with three course meals being the norm.  Having lunch will usually take you 2 hours and this isn't just a luxury for the tourists.  Storekeepers close down for a significant chunk of the mid day in order to eat their meal.   

Boeuf Bourgignon

Now, onto Courseulles-sur-Mer, which is a small French town on Juno Beach.  There is a Canadian war museum here, commemorating our country's efforts in the war.  Today, people stroll the beach as their dogs chase sea gulls back into the surf.  But we know that this very spot was the scene of fierce fighting just 65 years ago.  German bunkers in various states of dilapidation seem to crouch in the grasses, a couple having now collapsed into the sandy soil.   It's easy to feel all sorts of emotions in this place - gratitude, melancholy, a sense of national pride.  And, humility, as it seems to me that our generation can never truly know the depth of sacrifice that was made for our freedoms.