A hidden oasis in the rice paddies

The town of Ubud, in central Bali, sprawls over hills and valleys.  With both terraced rice fields and tiny pockets of dense forest, it's a change of pace from the seascape of south Bali.   In planning a trip to Bali, one has several beach towns to choose from (Sanur, Kuta, Legian, Seminyak), but there is only one Ubud.  Considered to be the cultural heart of Bali, local & foreign writers, poets and artists congregate there.   The streets are lined with workshops & studios for wood carvers, painters, silversmiths and other artisans to ply their trade. Regrettably, there is also a high saturation of tourists, shops, hawkers & touts. A happy consequence of this intense competition for the tourist dollar means food is abundant, outstanding & very reasonably priced.  Ubud is also the place to find dances, performances, cooking classes, and so on.

around Ubud

Our driver's name is Made, pronounced Mah-day.  We know he must be the second born in his family, though, technically he also could have been the sixth!  Traditionally, the eldest is always Wayan, then Made, followed by Nyoman, and lastly Ketut.  If needed, the cycle commences again.  The names are the same for both sexes with the addition of a prefix of "I" for males and "Ni" for females.  (That said, we've met plenty of Balinese with other names!)  We liked Made because of his polite, respectful demeanor.  When we walked down the street in Sanur, days before hiring him for the Ubud trip, he didn't badger us, follow us, or toss a brochure in our face.  He simply inquired "transport today?" and we said no.  He let it drop immediately, saying thank-you as we walked away.  So we turned around and went back to negotiate a price for the drive.

Once we arrived in Ubud, we were dismayed at the congestion & noise.  In his laid-back manner, Made mentioned that his cousin had a nice home set in a rice field.  It was within walking distance to the main area, but far enough away to be private & peaceful.  We figured it couldn't hurt to have a look;  it would be better than being wedged between a night club and a busy shop with motorcycles revving at all hours.

our room at Ala's Green Lagoon

When we were shown to the upper floor, presumably the honeymoon suite, our jaws dropped at the opulence.  Fabulously carved double doors opened into a spacious room, with glossy floors, vaulted nipa ceilings and a large, comfortable bed.  A stone carved archway led into a beautiful full bath.  No detail was spared on the finishes, from the ornate wood trim to the tile work in the bathroom.  The lack of air conditioning was mitigated by an inviting pool.  Although the price was 5 times higher than what we were paying at Little Pond in Sanur, we couldn't resist. Moments later, we were unwinding on our private balcony, blissfully sipping smoothies, compliments of the owner.  

ducks in the rice fields

Our favorite part of the three day stay at Green Lagoon was the picturesque view, though the tasty breakfasts (included!) and attentive staff certainly didn't hurt! We fell asleep to toads & crickets, and awoke to the rising sun.  A flock of domesticated ducks amused us with their waddling gait.  Several times the neighboring farmer herded them from one area to another, their indignant quacks rising in protest. We couldn't get enough of just sitting on our balcony, watching the cranes, catching glimpses of more exotic birds flashing through the forest (two turquoise birds with electric orange beaks, possibly from the toucan family, but far too elusive for photos!).