September 26, 2010

Our Balinese Homestay

Little Pond Homestay
 From the moment we touched down in Denpassar, and took a taxi through the winding streets to the town of Sanur, we knew we'd want to stay awhile. And after a few hectic weeks, it felt like a good time to put down some (shallow) roots.  For the last several days, this has been our home in Bali.  It's charming, tidy, and quiet.  The amenities are simple, hence the price tag of only 90,000 rupiah / $11.
Our showers are cold, and we rely on a fan for cooling.  Though every room is equipped with air con, we decided to save a little money.  The main reason we're able to do this is the mirror-calm pool just steps away from our room, shaded by lovely trees.  We take a dip a couple times a day, luxuriating in the liquid cool. When we exit the gate each day, one of us invariably bumps into the mangoes, hanging green and pendulous.

Sanur beach
One night I woke up certain we were in the midst of an earthquake, my sleepy self trying to remember what you're supposed to do.  It has rained every day, but usually for only a couple of hours.  Locals blame global warming and lament that this weather is bad for business.  Oddly, tourists do tend to scatter at the sight of a sombre cloud, despite the tropical temperatures.  One morning we perched in an open air cafe as the sky darkened, the ocean roiling and seething.  A few errant drops of rain blew in, sprinkling us, and the staff rushed over to close the roll-down bamboo shutters.  We assured them we were fine, and would rather have the view!  

Gado Gado with peanut sauce
Our list of new favorite foods continues to grow.  While it may seem that I only report on my own meals, this is only due to Aron's tendency to fall in love with the first dish he has in a place.  For example, curry & roti in Kota Kinabalu, murtabak in Singapore and now chicken or beef satay skewers in Bali.  Last night, I convinced him it was time to move on, if only for a day.  His dinner was Beef Rendang, meat stewed in coconut milk and Sumatran spices.  Mine was Gado Gado.  It seems I have finally found the 6-8 servings of fruit & vegetables recommended by the Canadian Food Guide all in one dish!  Gado Gado is lightly steamed vegetables rolled in cabbage, with a boiled egg, tempeh and beancurd on the side.  It doesn't get healthier than that, other than the generous serving of peanut sauce for dipping.

eating at a typical warung on the beach
Aside from the Golden Arches I alluded to before, there is a local version of fast food. About the only similarity between Balinese "fast food" and ours is the alacrity with which your order is filled. Tiny warungs resembling a hot dog cart cluster out on the beach or on the street.  These tend to offer only one or two dishes from the list of Indonesian staples.  For around $1.50 you can pick between nasi goreng (fried rice), mie goreng (fried noodles), satays, roasted corn-on-the-cob, or soto ayam (chicken ball soup).  There is one hitch:  I now have my hands full keeping the two of us a safe distance away from the fried banana warung!  Brown paper bags are filled to the brim for $0.75 while the owner's mother is trying to keep up with the dredging, battering and frying of bananas & other delicacies. 

5 comments:

  1. Hi had a fine warm weekend and fall summer like ahead. Thanks for sharing your tropical world, its much enjoyed. Love Dad

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  2. You must be so happy to finally get some nice fresh veggies! Take it easy and settle down for a bit, it looks awesome and is far enough off the beaten path to be quite enjoyable, I'm sure. Diane.

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  4. Your place there looks wonderful & the memories your blogs bring of the food makes me miss it so much. Murtabok, satay, & peanut sauce were so good, I really do have to find them all here in Calgary. Finding authentic is the challenge. Was so good to here from you. I'm glad you are completely over your Strep throat Aron. I do think if you go to Lombok you would like it. There is still all the rest of the island to see that is not a part of the failed tourist spots.You should be able to go just for the day if there is nowhere to stay, that's what we did & and hired a driver( its so cheap to do over there). If I had it to do over again I would stay there for a few days. As you know it was my favorite place in Asia. Every time I look at my pottery or primitive spoons from there it brings back such good memories. Isn't Bali lovely, so lush & isn't the sand hot, hot, hot. I' so glad you are enjoying your travels so much. Stay safe. Love Mom. P.S. We sure will miss you at Thanksgiving.

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  5. Hey looks like the two of you are having a great time... I wish Marianne and I were with you.Tell Aron the redskins are playing like shit
    1-2 but they did beat Dallas 1st game of the season.Weather has been sucky since you left so makes us wish we were with you even more.You missed a fun time at the family camp out.We drank lots of beer and told lots of funny stories.I better get to bed ,,, will check in again soon Kirk

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